Grand Canyon

Surprisingly, the American pony express operated only a very short period of time — for eighteen months from April 3, 1860, to October 26, 1861, between Missouri and California. Yet, thanks to the popularity of books, movies and TV shows, most people have heard of it and believe it was in existence for many years.

But what’s really surprising is that another equine mail route has been continuously operating for almost a hundred years, if not longer. The Smithsonian’s National Postal Museum’s earliest photo of these equines delivering mail is from 1938, but the route was already firmly established by then. Who are these equines and where is the mail route, you ask? Let me introduce you to the mules who, five days a week, carry letters and packages, including those from Amazon, down nine miles of steep trails in the Grand Canyon to Phantom Ranch and the community of Havasupai people living at the bottom.

Each mule can carry up to two hundred pounds. It takes three hours for the string of mules to walk down and five hours to walk back up — while being led by a single wrangler. On the return trip, the mules are untethered. Smart and well-trained, they walked single file, nose to tail. There are usually two mule trains each delivery day, allowing the wrangler and mules a chance to rest overnight.

Why mules, you ask? For one, motor vehicles, which would damage the environment and the Grand Canyon’s natural beauty, aren’t allowed. For two, mules are extremely surefooted, strong, and hardy, making them well-suited for this type of hard work. While they can be stubborn, they also learn quickly and rarely forget.

One of the last stops before reaching the canyon bottom is Peach Springs, AZ,  whose claim to fame is the only post office in the country with a walk-in freezer. This is to keep frozen food as cold as possible before the final leg of the journey. You see, not just mail is delivered. The ranch and Havasupai people depend on the mules to also bring needed supplies, such as medicines and tools and equipment and even small appliances.

Like any postal employees, the mule wranglers and packers get an early start.  They begin their day at 2:45 a.m. in order to beat the heat, oppressive for half the year. Inventory is weighed and sorted, the mules are fed and groomed, and then their panniers are packed. As soon as it’s light enough, they start down the trail.

Without these regular deliveries, the Havasupai people would be cut off and unable to get the supplies they need to survive. The Phantom Ranch wouldn’t be able to host tourists. So, these delivery mules aren’t just a cool piece of living history, they’re providing a vital service to a remote community.