Petticoats & Pistols » 19th Century Fashion http://petticoatsandpistols.com Romancing The West Thu, 24 May 2012 02:38:45 +0000 en hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.2.1 A Passion for Fashion . . . and Giveaway!!! http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2012/03/23/a-passion-for-fashion-and-giveaway/ http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2012/03/23/a-passion-for-fashion-and-giveaway/#comments Fri, 23 Mar 2012 05:01:51 +0000 KarenW http://petticoatsandpistols.com/?p=30333

Women have always been drawn to fashion, and the Texas frontier was no different than any other setting. From wealthy ranch wives to schoolmarms to women working on the farm, females shared a common thirst for fashion. Practicality won out for slopping the pigs or hanging out the wash, but for church, a picnic, or party, every woman wanted to look her best. And with the advent of fashion magazines becoming readily available through the post, a woman need not live in the fine cities of the east to know what the latest styles dictated. Harper's Bazaar, Peterson's Magazine, The Delineator, and Godey's Lady's Book were some of the favorites during the latter half of the 19thcentury. [caption id="attachment_30339" align="alignright" width="133" caption="1880"][/caption] [caption id="attachment_30335" align="alignleft" width="126" caption="1867"][/caption] [caption id="attachment_30337" align="alignleft" width="121" caption="1877"][/caption]                   My favorite era to write about is the 1880s. Early in the decade, we see lovely slender silhouettes. The bell-shaped skirts of the Civil War era had been left behind and the bustles of the 1870s had not yet made their comeback, so the style of the day exemplified grace and elegance. However, the tight-fitting style wasn't always practical. This sample from Godey's (at left) shows the slender lines, layered flounces on the skirts, and the vibrant colors women of this time period enjoyed. The women on the ends are wearing the snug fitting basque bodices that extend to the edge of the hips while the dresses on the women next to them exemplify the longer polonaise style bodice that becomes more of an overskirt as it drapes past the knees or even the ankles. Below is a fashion plate from the September 1881 issue of Peterson's Magazine. Note the tiny, corseted waists and gathered, draping fabric across the hips and upper leg area of the two models on the right. This horizontal draping was very indicative of the early 1880s. Some of the most popular fabrics included silk (lightweight for eveningwear, faille, lampas, and gros grain varieties for walking dresses), wool (merino, cashmere), satin (often brocaded), and velvet. Of course, women with a more modest budget had to make do with linen, muslin, and calico. Yet in the hands of a capable dressmaker, the results still translated into fashionable ensembles. So what 1881 fashion best describes your personality?
  • The fine merino wool walking dress - You like to wear the latest styles, presenting an elegant, refined, and professional image.
  • The calico work dress – High fashion is just not practical for your everyday life. You've got too much to get done and prefer being comfortable while you're doing it.
  • Britches and cotton – You've got a bit of a rebel streak in you. You'd rather be off with the boys fishing, riding, or doing anything outdoors. Skirts of any kind are just a hassle.
    Leave a comment for a chance to win a copy of my first release, A Tailor-Made Bride. In this story, my heroine, Hannah, is a seamstress who always keeps abreast of the latest trends while finding ways to adapt them to the lifestyle of the women in Coventry, Texas.   A Tailor-Made Bride was a 2011 RITA finalist for Best First Book as well as a finalist for the 2011 National Reader's Choice Award.  ]]> http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2012/03/23/a-passion-for-fashion-and-giveaway/feed/ 56 Strap ‘em on, Cowboy… http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/10/28/strap-em-on-cowboy/ http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/10/28/strap-em-on-cowboy/#comments Fri, 28 Oct 2011 06:00:43 +0000 KarenW http://petticoatsandpistols.com/?p=27841 From a distance, you might think one cowboy looks pretty much like another, but on closer inspection, you'll find that though their gear contains the same staples, a cowboy finds a way to make his equipment truly his own. From the type of horse he rides, to the tool work on his saddle, to the way he shapes the brim of his hat--a western man can tell you a lot about himself without ever opening his mouth. One prime example of this is how the man wears his gun. In the 19th century, it was unheard of for a man to ride the range without a weapon within easy reach. Dangers abounded. Wild animals. Snakes.  Not to mention the trouble that originated on two legs from rustlers or Indian raiding parties. Some carried rifles in a scabbard attached to the saddle, but after the advent of the Colt Single Action Army revolver or Peacemaker in 1873, most cowboys carried a sidearm either instead of a rifle or in addition to it. It was always at hand, even if one's horse was not. But how a man chose to wear his Colt, well . . . that was a matter of style and expediency. The leather holster could be plain or decorated, usually natural or brown-colored leather, though sometimes black. Some men stamped their initials or their ranch's brand into the leather. Holsters in the 1870s were open at the top and had a belt loop on the backside which slid over the cartridge belt. By the 1880s,  holsters tended to be made from a single piece of leather with a back that looped over the belt and provided slots to secure the front. The holster at the top of this post shows this later style with a double loop holster. Gun belts usually ranged from 3-4 inches wide, and the number of catridge loops on them depended on the caliber of the revolver as well as the length of the belt. Most carried between 40-50 loops. Since ammunition came in boxes of 50, one box could generally fill the belt and the revolver, leaving one chamber empty for safety purposes. Look at the two men pictured below. Both wear their guns on the right hip. However one man is left-handed. Notice the butt of the pistols. The man in black is wearing his in the usual fashion, with the handle pointing backward. In contrast, note how the man in white shirt sleeves has his handle pointing forward. This is called the "cross draw" position. While most preferred drawing their weapon from the same hip as the dominant hand, some found it easier to reach across their body to draw their weapon, hence the outward facing handle. In fact, if you look carefully at the picture above with the four cowboys together, you'll notice the third man from the left wears his pistol in the cross draw position.                       Despite what we see in the movies, a working cowboy rarely if ever wore more than one gun. If he did wear two, usually the second was simply to have on hand to save the time of reloading as a man would not be nearly as proficient a shooter with his non-dominant hand. And those holsters that tied down to a man's thigh? Well, those were usually reserved for professional gunmen whether on the right or wrong side of the law. The tie served to anchor the holster so that no slip of the leather would impede a fast draw. So do any of you have antique holsters or gun belts in your family treasure chest? The wearing of sidearms waned after the end of the 19th century. As populations grew, towns passed ordinances against carrying weapons. But some die hard cowboys never gave up on packing their Colt when riding the range.]]> http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/10/28/strap-em-on-cowboy/feed/ 20 That Really Chaps My Hide! http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/09/23/that-really-chaps-my-hide/ http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/09/23/that-really-chaps-my-hide/#comments Fri, 23 Sep 2011 06:00:01 +0000 KarenW http://petticoatsandpistols.com/?p=26682 Besides the trademark hat and boots, the item of clothing that says Cowboy more than any other has to be his chaps. Evolved from the chaparejos of the Mexican vaqueros, chaps were originally designed as part of the saddle. Made of animal hides, these armas, or shields,  attached to the horn of the saddle and wrapped around the rider's legs as well as the horse's chest. Now, if you're like me and didn't grow up around authentic cowboy culture, you probably pronounce chaps like I do with a ch sound like in the word cheek. However, it truth, it is pronounced with an sh sound like in the Spanish word chaparral, which interestingly enough is the scrubby vegetation that motivated the vaqueros to create chaps in the first place. Shotguns In the 1830s and 40s, the first full-length leather britches were created that completely encircled the legs (although the seat remained uncovered). By the 1870s, these garments came to be known as "shotguns" because they were basically two leather cylinders belted together resembling the double barrels of a shotgun. The waist belt was square cut and buckled at the back. Many came with pockets that closed with a flap and a cowboy could personalize his set by the way he dressed up the outer seams. Many had fringe or conchas. Although, most working cowhands weren't too concerned with appearance. All they cared about was the protection the leggings provided against not only vegetation, but weather as well. They kept a man's trousers dry in rain and afforded an extra layer of warmth in wintry conditions. In hot months, though, a man often removed them and worked without. Some men claimed they gave a firmer seat in the saddle since leather clings to leather and afforded a stronger grip with the knees. Shotgun chaps were put on like a pair of pants. They flared a bit at the ankle to allow a cowboy to put them on without having to remove his boots or even spurs. Batwings In the 1880s, due to the popularity of  Wild West Shows and rodeos, a new style of chaps came into fashion. This variety featured wide leather wings that flapped out to the sides. In the beginning, batwing chaps mimicked the step-in style of the shotguns with buckles running the length of the outside seam. However, by the turn of the century, fewer buckles were used and more leather was added. The open leg style took precedence with the chaps only being fastened to the back of the knee. They also became highly decorated with colored leather designs, silver conchos, fancy stitching, and all kinds of custom leather tooling. This is the style you continue to see along the rodeo circuit today. Woolies Around the same time as the introduction of the batwing, another style emerged on the scene. Woolies became exceedingly popular among cowboys who worked northern ranches, like those in Wyoming or Montana. Most were made from Angora goat skin, but they could also be made from bear, buffalo, or even mountain lion. The wool helped to repel water and added a significant layer of warmth. They were fashioned like the shotguns, as a step-in model, and usually were found in solid colors, white and black being the most common. They had a canvas lining which aided putting them on and taking them off, as the rough leather on the opposite side of the fur would not slide easily over a man's trousers. So which style of chaps would you prefer your hero to wear? Have any of you worn them yourself? I'd love to hear about your experiences. I'll be in and out today since I'm at the American Christian Fiction Writers conference, but I'll check in as often as possible. Blessings! (Reference - I See By Your Outfit: Historical Cowboy Gear of the Northern Plains by Tom Lindmier & Steve Mount)]]> http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/09/23/that-really-chaps-my-hide/feed/ 23 Tennis Anyone? http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/09/09/tennis-anyone/ http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/09/09/tennis-anyone/#comments Fri, 09 Sep 2011 06:00:47 +0000 KarenW http://petticoatsandpistols.com/?p=26276 I'm a huge tennis fan, and this weekend the finals of the last Grand Slam tournament of 2011 will be going on in New York at the US Open. I'm always amazed at the athleticism and power of the top contenders, but I wonder how they would fare if someone turned back the clock 120 years and gave them the equipment and clothing of their predecessors. Like most sports, the game of tennis evolved over several centuries, but it wasn't until the 1870s that the first lawn tennis club was established in England. The first tennis championship took place in 1877 at a lovely little place called Wimbledon. Just a few years later in 1881,  the United States National Lawn Tennis Association was formed, and the US National Men's Singles Championship (later to become the US Open) was held in Newport, Rhode Island.  The sport became a fashionable rage in the 1880's and 90's, especially among the middle classes, and soon men and women both were taking up racquets and installing private lawn tennis courts at their homes. However, women's clothing of the time made few concessions to the sport. Men were able to play in loose-fitting trousers, shirt sleeves, and a bare head while women were still expected to wear dresses with high-neck bodices, floor-length skirts, layers of petticoats, hats, and yes. . . corsets. The restrictive clothing made it nearly impossible for a woman to bend over and retrieve a ball, so beautifully embroidered tennis aprons with large pockets became the style. In the beginning, tennis was simply a recreational activity, much like croquet. The fun came in the gathering of friends. Players stood close to the net and simply patted the ball to each other. Yet competitive natures prevailed, and it soon became a sport for athletes. During this time of change, women began making strides in adapting their clothing to better accommodate the physical aspects of the game. Maud Watson became the first female champion at Wimbledon in 1884 and she shocked many with her agressive style of play and *gasp* her short skirts. They barely reached her ankles! American MaySutton stunned spectators when she rolled up her sleeves during a match and bared her forearms. However, it was Frenchwoman Suzanne Lenglen in the 1920's who took women's sportwear to a whole new level. Her calf-length cotton dresses were considered indecent since she wore neither corset nor petticoat. And instead of a hat, she wore a silk bandeau around her head to help keep her hair out of her eyes. But it was her grace and skill on the court that made her a sporting heroine and inspired women everywhere to give up the shakles of fashion to embrace functionality when it came to sport apparel. Can you imagine trying to play tennis or any serious sport while trussed up in a corset? I don't know how they did it. But if it weren't for those early competive females like Maude Watson who started taking small revolutionary steps, the women's movement might not have gained the momentum it did at the turn of the century. Are any of you tennis fans? Want to strap on a corset and long skirt and join me for a reenactment match? No? I'm shocked. Truly shocked.]]> http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/09/09/tennis-anyone/feed/ 19 Clothes To Get Hitched In http://petticoatsandpistols.com Romancing The West Thu, 24 May 2012 02:38:45 +0000 en hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.2.1 Petticoats & Pistols » 19th Century Fashion http://petticoatsandpistols.com Romancing The West Thu, 24 May 2012 02:38:45 +0000 en hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.2.1 A Passion for Fashion . . . and Giveaway!!! http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2012/03/23/a-passion-for-fashion-and-giveaway/ http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2012/03/23/a-passion-for-fashion-and-giveaway/#comments Fri, 23 Mar 2012 05:01:51 +0000 KarenW http://petticoatsandpistols.com/?p=30333

Women have always been drawn to fashion, and the Texas frontier was no different than any other setting. From wealthy ranch wives to schoolmarms to women working on the farm, females shared a common thirst for fashion. Practicality won out for slopping the pigs or hanging out the wash, but for church, a picnic, or party, every woman wanted to look her best. And with the advent of fashion magazines becoming readily available through the post, a woman need not live in the fine cities of the east to know what the latest styles dictated. Harper's Bazaar, Peterson's Magazine, The Delineator, and Godey's Lady's Book were some of the favorites during the latter half of the 19thcentury. [caption id="attachment_30339" align="alignright" width="133" caption="1880"][/caption] [caption id="attachment_30335" align="alignleft" width="126" caption="1867"][/caption] [caption id="attachment_30337" align="alignleft" width="121" caption="1877"][/caption]                   My favorite era to write about is the 1880s. Early in the decade, we see lovely slender silhouettes. The bell-shaped skirts of the Civil War era had been left behind and the bustles of the 1870s had not yet made their comeback, so the style of the day exemplified grace and elegance. However, the tight-fitting style wasn't always practical. This sample from Godey's (at left) shows the slender lines, layered flounces on the skirts, and the vibrant colors women of this time period enjoyed. The women on the ends are wearing the snug fitting basque bodices that extend to the edge of the hips while the dresses on the women next to them exemplify the longer polonaise style bodice that becomes more of an overskirt as it drapes past the knees or even the ankles. Below is a fashion plate from the September 1881 issue of Peterson's Magazine. Note the tiny, corseted waists and gathered, draping fabric across the hips and upper leg area of the two models on the right. This horizontal draping was very indicative of the early 1880s. Some of the most popular fabrics included silk (lightweight for eveningwear, faille, lampas, and gros grain varieties for walking dresses), wool (merino, cashmere), satin (often brocaded), and velvet. Of course, women with a more modest budget had to make do with linen, muslin, and calico. Yet in the hands of a capable dressmaker, the results still translated into fashionable ensembles. So what 1881 fashion best describes your personality?
  • The fine merino wool walking dress - You like to wear the latest styles, presenting an elegant, refined, and professional image.
  • The calico work dress – High fashion is just not practical for your everyday life. You've got too much to get done and prefer being comfortable while you're doing it.
  • Britches and cotton – You've got a bit of a rebel streak in you. You'd rather be off with the boys fishing, riding, or doing anything outdoors. Skirts of any kind are just a hassle.
    Leave a comment for a chance to win a copy of my first release, A Tailor-Made Bride. In this story, my heroine, Hannah, is a seamstress who always keeps abreast of the latest trends while finding ways to adapt them to the lifestyle of the women in Coventry, Texas.   A Tailor-Made Bride was a 2011 RITA finalist for Best First Book as well as a finalist for the 2011 National Reader's Choice Award.  ]]> http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2012/03/23/a-passion-for-fashion-and-giveaway/feed/ 56 Strap ‘em on, Cowboy… http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/10/28/strap-em-on-cowboy/ http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/10/28/strap-em-on-cowboy/#comments Fri, 28 Oct 2011 06:00:43 +0000 KarenW http://petticoatsandpistols.com/?p=27841 From a distance, you might think one cowboy looks pretty much like another, but on closer inspection, you'll find that though their gear contains the same staples, a cowboy finds a way to make his equipment truly his own. From the type of horse he rides, to the tool work on his saddle, to the way he shapes the brim of his hat--a western man can tell you a lot about himself without ever opening his mouth. One prime example of this is how the man wears his gun. In the 19th century, it was unheard of for a man to ride the range without a weapon within easy reach. Dangers abounded. Wild animals. Snakes.  Not to mention the trouble that originated on two legs from rustlers or Indian raiding parties. Some carried rifles in a scabbard attached to the saddle, but after the advent of the Colt Single Action Army revolver or Peacemaker in 1873, most cowboys carried a sidearm either instead of a rifle or in addition to it. It was always at hand, even if one's horse was not. But how a man chose to wear his Colt, well . . . that was a matter of style and expediency. The leather holster could be plain or decorated, usually natural or brown-colored leather, though sometimes black. Some men stamped their initials or their ranch's brand into the leather. Holsters in the 1870s were open at the top and had a belt loop on the backside which slid over the cartridge belt. By the 1880s,  holsters tended to be made from a single piece of leather with a back that looped over the belt and provided slots to secure the front. The holster at the top of this post shows this later style with a double loop holster. Gun belts usually ranged from 3-4 inches wide, and the number of catridge loops on them depended on the caliber of the revolver as well as the length of the belt. Most carried between 40-50 loops. Since ammunition came in boxes of 50, one box could generally fill the belt and the revolver, leaving one chamber empty for safety purposes. Look at the two men pictured below. Both wear their guns on the right hip. However one man is left-handed. Notice the butt of the pistols. The man in black is wearing his in the usual fashion, with the handle pointing backward. In contrast, note how the man in white shirt sleeves has his handle pointing forward. This is called the "cross draw" position. While most preferred drawing their weapon from the same hip as the dominant hand, some found it easier to reach across their body to draw their weapon, hence the outward facing handle. In fact, if you look carefully at the picture above with the four cowboys together, you'll notice the third man from the left wears his pistol in the cross draw position.                       Despite what we see in the movies, a working cowboy rarely if ever wore more than one gun. If he did wear two, usually the second was simply to have on hand to save the time of reloading as a man would not be nearly as proficient a shooter with his non-dominant hand. And those holsters that tied down to a man's thigh? Well, those were usually reserved for professional gunmen whether on the right or wrong side of the law. The tie served to anchor the holster so that no slip of the leather would impede a fast draw. So do any of you have antique holsters or gun belts in your family treasure chest? The wearing of sidearms waned after the end of the 19th century. As populations grew, towns passed ordinances against carrying weapons. But some die hard cowboys never gave up on packing their Colt when riding the range.]]> http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/10/28/strap-em-on-cowboy/feed/ 20 That Really Chaps My Hide! http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/09/23/that-really-chaps-my-hide/ http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/09/23/that-really-chaps-my-hide/#comments Fri, 23 Sep 2011 06:00:01 +0000 KarenW http://petticoatsandpistols.com/?p=26682 Besides the trademark hat and boots, the item of clothing that says Cowboy more than any other has to be his chaps. Evolved from the chaparejos of the Mexican vaqueros, chaps were originally designed as part of the saddle. Made of animal hides, these armas, or shields,  attached to the horn of the saddle and wrapped around the rider's legs as well as the horse's chest. Now, if you're like me and didn't grow up around authentic cowboy culture, you probably pronounce chaps like I do with a ch sound like in the word cheek. However, it truth, it is pronounced with an sh sound like in the Spanish word chaparral, which interestingly enough is the scrubby vegetation that motivated the vaqueros to create chaps in the first place. Shotguns In the 1830s and 40s, the first full-length leather britches were created that completely encircled the legs (although the seat remained uncovered). By the 1870s, these garments came to be known as "shotguns" because they were basically two leather cylinders belted together resembling the double barrels of a shotgun. The waist belt was square cut and buckled at the back. Many came with pockets that closed with a flap and a cowboy could personalize his set by the way he dressed up the outer seams. Many had fringe or conchas. Although, most working cowhands weren't too concerned with appearance. All they cared about was the protection the leggings provided against not only vegetation, but weather as well. They kept a man's trousers dry in rain and afforded an extra layer of warmth in wintry conditions. In hot months, though, a man often removed them and worked without. Some men claimed they gave a firmer seat in the saddle since leather clings to leather and afforded a stronger grip with the knees. Shotgun chaps were put on like a pair of pants. They flared a bit at the ankle to allow a cowboy to put them on without having to remove his boots or even spurs. Batwings In the 1880s, due to the popularity of  Wild West Shows and rodeos, a new style of chaps came into fashion. This variety featured wide leather wings that flapped out to the sides. In the beginning, batwing chaps mimicked the step-in style of the shotguns with buckles running the length of the outside seam. However, by the turn of the century, fewer buckles were used and more leather was added. The open leg style took precedence with the chaps only being fastened to the back of the knee. They also became highly decorated with colored leather designs, silver conchos, fancy stitching, and all kinds of custom leather tooling. This is the style you continue to see along the rodeo circuit today. Woolies Around the same time as the introduction of the batwing, another style emerged on the scene. Woolies became exceedingly popular among cowboys who worked northern ranches, like those in Wyoming or Montana. Most were made from Angora goat skin, but they could also be made from bear, buffalo, or even mountain lion. The wool helped to repel water and added a significant layer of warmth. They were fashioned like the shotguns, as a step-in model, and usually were found in solid colors, white and black being the most common. They had a canvas lining which aided putting them on and taking them off, as the rough leather on the opposite side of the fur would not slide easily over a man's trousers. So which style of chaps would you prefer your hero to wear? Have any of you worn them yourself? I'd love to hear about your experiences. I'll be in and out today since I'm at the American Christian Fiction Writers conference, but I'll check in as often as possible. Blessings! (Reference - I See By Your Outfit: Historical Cowboy Gear of the Northern Plains by Tom Lindmier & Steve Mount)]]> http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/09/23/that-really-chaps-my-hide/feed/ 23 Tennis Anyone? http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/09/09/tennis-anyone/ http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/09/09/tennis-anyone/#comments Fri, 09 Sep 2011 06:00:47 +0000 KarenW http://petticoatsandpistols.com/?p=26276 I'm a huge tennis fan, and this weekend the finals of the last Grand Slam tournament of 2011 will be going on in New York at the US Open. I'm always amazed at the athleticism and power of the top contenders, but I wonder how they would fare if someone turned back the clock 120 years and gave them the equipment and clothing of their predecessors. Like most sports, the game of tennis evolved over several centuries, but it wasn't until the 1870s that the first lawn tennis club was established in England. The first tennis championship took place in 1877 at a lovely little place called Wimbledon. Just a few years later in 1881,  the United States National Lawn Tennis Association was formed, and the US National Men's Singles Championship (later to become the US Open) was held in Newport, Rhode Island.  The sport became a fashionable rage in the 1880's and 90's, especially among the middle classes, and soon men and women both were taking up racquets and installing private lawn tennis courts at their homes. However, women's clothing of the time made few concessions to the sport. Men were able to play in loose-fitting trousers, shirt sleeves, and a bare head while women were still expected to wear dresses with high-neck bodices, floor-length skirts, layers of petticoats, hats, and yes. . . corsets. The restrictive clothing made it nearly impossible for a woman to bend over and retrieve a ball, so beautifully embroidered tennis aprons with large pockets became the style. In the beginning, tennis was simply a recreational activity, much like croquet. The fun came in the gathering of friends. Players stood close to the net and simply patted the ball to each other. Yet competitive natures prevailed, and it soon became a sport for athletes. During this time of change, women began making strides in adapting their clothing to better accommodate the physical aspects of the game. Maud Watson became the first female champion at Wimbledon in 1884 and she shocked many with her agressive style of play and *gasp* her short skirts. They barely reached her ankles! American MaySutton stunned spectators when she rolled up her sleeves during a match and bared her forearms. However, it was Frenchwoman Suzanne Lenglen in the 1920's who took women's sportwear to a whole new level. Her calf-length cotton dresses were considered indecent since she wore neither corset nor petticoat. And instead of a hat, she wore a silk bandeau around her head to help keep her hair out of her eyes. But it was her grace and skill on the court that made her a sporting heroine and inspired women everywhere to give up the shakles of fashion to embrace functionality when it came to sport apparel. Can you imagine trying to play tennis or any serious sport while trussed up in a corset? I don't know how they did it. But if it weren't for those early competive females like Maude Watson who started taking small revolutionary steps, the women's movement might not have gained the momentum it did at the turn of the century. Are any of you tennis fans? Want to strap on a corset and long skirt and join me for a reenactment match? No? I'm shocked. Truly shocked.]]> http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/09/09/tennis-anyone/feed/ 19 Clothes To Get Hitched In http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2012/03/23/a-passion-for-fashion-and-giveaway/ http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2012/03/23/a-passion-for-fashion-and-giveaway/#comments Fri, 23 Mar 2012 05:01:51 +0000 KarenW http://petticoatsandpistols.com/?p=30333

Women have always been drawn to fashion, and the Texas frontier was no different than any other setting. From wealthy ranch wives to schoolmarms to women working on the farm, females shared a common thirst for fashion. Practicality won out for slopping the pigs or hanging out the wash, but for church, a picnic, or party, every woman wanted to look her best. And with the advent of fashion magazines becoming readily available through the post, a woman need not live in the fine cities of the east to know what the latest styles dictated. Harper's Bazaar, Peterson's Magazine, The Delineator, and Godey's Lady's Book were some of the favorites during the latter half of the 19thcentury. [caption id="attachment_30339" align="alignright" width="133" caption="1880"][/caption] [caption id="attachment_30335" align="alignleft" width="126" caption="1867"][/caption] [caption id="attachment_30337" align="alignleft" width="121" caption="1877"][/caption]                   My favorite era to write about is the 1880s. Early in the decade, we see lovely slender silhouettes. The bell-shaped skirts of the Civil War era had been left behind and the bustles of the 1870s had not yet made their comeback, so the style of the day exemplified grace and elegance. However, the tight-fitting style wasn't always practical. This sample from Godey's (at left) shows the slender lines, layered flounces on the skirts, and the vibrant colors women of this time period enjoyed. The women on the ends are wearing the snug fitting basque bodices that extend to the edge of the hips while the dresses on the women next to them exemplify the longer polonaise style bodice that becomes more of an overskirt as it drapes past the knees or even the ankles. Below is a fashion plate from the September 1881 issue of Peterson's Magazine. Note the tiny, corseted waists and gathered, draping fabric across the hips and upper leg area of the two models on the right. This horizontal draping was very indicative of the early 1880s. Some of the most popular fabrics included silk (lightweight for eveningwear, faille, lampas, and gros grain varieties for walking dresses), wool (merino, cashmere), satin (often brocaded), and velvet. Of course, women with a more modest budget had to make do with linen, muslin, and calico. Yet in the hands of a capable dressmaker, the results still translated into fashionable ensembles. So what 1881 fashion best describes your personality?
  • The fine merino wool walking dress - You like to wear the latest styles, presenting an elegant, refined, and professional image.
  • The calico work dress – High fashion is just not practical for your everyday life. You've got too much to get done and prefer being comfortable while you're doing it.
  • Britches and cotton – You've got a bit of a rebel streak in you. You'd rather be off with the boys fishing, riding, or doing anything outdoors. Skirts of any kind are just a hassle.
    Leave a comment for a chance to win a copy of my first release, A Tailor-Made Bride. In this story, my heroine, Hannah, is a seamstress who always keeps abreast of the latest trends while finding ways to adapt them to the lifestyle of the women in Coventry, Texas.   A Tailor-Made Bride was a 2011 RITA finalist for Best First Book as well as a finalist for the 2011 National Reader's Choice Award.  ]]> http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2012/03/23/a-passion-for-fashion-and-giveaway/feed/ 56 Petticoats & Pistols » 19th Century Fashion http://petticoatsandpistols.com Romancing The West Thu, 24 May 2012 02:38:45 +0000 en hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.2.1 A Passion for Fashion . . . and Giveaway!!! http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2012/03/23/a-passion-for-fashion-and-giveaway/ http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2012/03/23/a-passion-for-fashion-and-giveaway/#comments Fri, 23 Mar 2012 05:01:51 +0000 KarenW http://petticoatsandpistols.com/?p=30333

Women have always been drawn to fashion, and the Texas frontier was no different than any other setting. From wealthy ranch wives to schoolmarms to women working on the farm, females shared a common thirst for fashion. Practicality won out for slopping the pigs or hanging out the wash, but for church, a picnic, or party, every woman wanted to look her best. And with the advent of fashion magazines becoming readily available through the post, a woman need not live in the fine cities of the east to know what the latest styles dictated. Harper's Bazaar, Peterson's Magazine, The Delineator, and Godey's Lady's Book were some of the favorites during the latter half of the 19thcentury. [caption id="attachment_30339" align="alignright" width="133" caption="1880"][/caption] [caption id="attachment_30335" align="alignleft" width="126" caption="1867"][/caption] [caption id="attachment_30337" align="alignleft" width="121" caption="1877"][/caption]                   My favorite era to write about is the 1880s. Early in the decade, we see lovely slender silhouettes. The bell-shaped skirts of the Civil War era had been left behind and the bustles of the 1870s had not yet made their comeback, so the style of the day exemplified grace and elegance. However, the tight-fitting style wasn't always practical. This sample from Godey's (at left) shows the slender lines, layered flounces on the skirts, and the vibrant colors women of this time period enjoyed. The women on the ends are wearing the snug fitting basque bodices that extend to the edge of the hips while the dresses on the women next to them exemplify the longer polonaise style bodice that becomes more of an overskirt as it drapes past the knees or even the ankles. Below is a fashion plate from the September 1881 issue of Peterson's Magazine. Note the tiny, corseted waists and gathered, draping fabric across the hips and upper leg area of the two models on the right. This horizontal draping was very indicative of the early 1880s. Some of the most popular fabrics included silk (lightweight for eveningwear, faille, lampas, and gros grain varieties for walking dresses), wool (merino, cashmere), satin (often brocaded), and velvet. Of course, women with a more modest budget had to make do with linen, muslin, and calico. Yet in the hands of a capable dressmaker, the results still translated into fashionable ensembles. So what 1881 fashion best describes your personality?
  • The fine merino wool walking dress - You like to wear the latest styles, presenting an elegant, refined, and professional image.
  • The calico work dress – High fashion is just not practical for your everyday life. You've got too much to get done and prefer being comfortable while you're doing it.
  • Britches and cotton – You've got a bit of a rebel streak in you. You'd rather be off with the boys fishing, riding, or doing anything outdoors. Skirts of any kind are just a hassle.
    Leave a comment for a chance to win a copy of my first release, A Tailor-Made Bride. In this story, my heroine, Hannah, is a seamstress who always keeps abreast of the latest trends while finding ways to adapt them to the lifestyle of the women in Coventry, Texas.   A Tailor-Made Bride was a 2011 RITA finalist for Best First Book as well as a finalist for the 2011 National Reader's Choice Award.  ]]> http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2012/03/23/a-passion-for-fashion-and-giveaway/feed/ 56 Strap ‘em on, Cowboy… http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/10/28/strap-em-on-cowboy/ http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/10/28/strap-em-on-cowboy/#comments Fri, 28 Oct 2011 06:00:43 +0000 KarenW http://petticoatsandpistols.com/?p=27841 From a distance, you might think one cowboy looks pretty much like another, but on closer inspection, you'll find that though their gear contains the same staples, a cowboy finds a way to make his equipment truly his own. From the type of horse he rides, to the tool work on his saddle, to the way he shapes the brim of his hat--a western man can tell you a lot about himself without ever opening his mouth. One prime example of this is how the man wears his gun. In the 19th century, it was unheard of for a man to ride the range without a weapon within easy reach. Dangers abounded. Wild animals. Snakes.  Not to mention the trouble that originated on two legs from rustlers or Indian raiding parties. Some carried rifles in a scabbard attached to the saddle, but after the advent of the Colt Single Action Army revolver or Peacemaker in 1873, most cowboys carried a sidearm either instead of a rifle or in addition to it. It was always at hand, even if one's horse was not. But how a man chose to wear his Colt, well . . . that was a matter of style and expediency. The leather holster could be plain or decorated, usually natural or brown-colored leather, though sometimes black. Some men stamped their initials or their ranch's brand into the leather. Holsters in the 1870s were open at the top and had a belt loop on the backside which slid over the cartridge belt. By the 1880s,  holsters tended to be made from a single piece of leather with a back that looped over the belt and provided slots to secure the front. The holster at the top of this post shows this later style with a double loop holster. Gun belts usually ranged from 3-4 inches wide, and the number of catridge loops on them depended on the caliber of the revolver as well as the length of the belt. Most carried between 40-50 loops. Since ammunition came in boxes of 50, one box could generally fill the belt and the revolver, leaving one chamber empty for safety purposes. Look at the two men pictured below. Both wear their guns on the right hip. However one man is left-handed. Notice the butt of the pistols. The man in black is wearing his in the usual fashion, with the handle pointing backward. In contrast, note how the man in white shirt sleeves has his handle pointing forward. This is called the "cross draw" position. While most preferred drawing their weapon from the same hip as the dominant hand, some found it easier to reach across their body to draw their weapon, hence the outward facing handle. In fact, if you look carefully at the picture above with the four cowboys together, you'll notice the third man from the left wears his pistol in the cross draw position.                       Despite what we see in the movies, a working cowboy rarely if ever wore more than one gun. If he did wear two, usually the second was simply to have on hand to save the time of reloading as a man would not be nearly as proficient a shooter with his non-dominant hand. And those holsters that tied down to a man's thigh? Well, those were usually reserved for professional gunmen whether on the right or wrong side of the law. The tie served to anchor the holster so that no slip of the leather would impede a fast draw. So do any of you have antique holsters or gun belts in your family treasure chest? The wearing of sidearms waned after the end of the 19th century. As populations grew, towns passed ordinances against carrying weapons. But some die hard cowboys never gave up on packing their Colt when riding the range.]]> http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/10/28/strap-em-on-cowboy/feed/ 20 That Really Chaps My Hide! http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/09/23/that-really-chaps-my-hide/ http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/09/23/that-really-chaps-my-hide/#comments Fri, 23 Sep 2011 06:00:01 +0000 KarenW http://petticoatsandpistols.com/?p=26682 Besides the trademark hat and boots, the item of clothing that says Cowboy more than any other has to be his chaps. Evolved from the chaparejos of the Mexican vaqueros, chaps were originally designed as part of the saddle. Made of animal hides, these armas, or shields,  attached to the horn of the saddle and wrapped around the rider's legs as well as the horse's chest. Now, if you're like me and didn't grow up around authentic cowboy culture, you probably pronounce chaps like I do with a ch sound like in the word cheek. However, it truth, it is pronounced with an sh sound like in the Spanish word chaparral, which interestingly enough is the scrubby vegetation that motivated the vaqueros to create chaps in the first place. Shotguns In the 1830s and 40s, the first full-length leather britches were created that completely encircled the legs (although the seat remained uncovered). By the 1870s, these garments came to be known as "shotguns" because they were basically two leather cylinders belted together resembling the double barrels of a shotgun. The waist belt was square cut and buckled at the back. Many came with pockets that closed with a flap and a cowboy could personalize his set by the way he dressed up the outer seams. Many had fringe or conchas. Although, most working cowhands weren't too concerned with appearance. All they cared about was the protection the leggings provided against not only vegetation, but weather as well. They kept a man's trousers dry in rain and afforded an extra layer of warmth in wintry conditions. In hot months, though, a man often removed them and worked without. Some men claimed they gave a firmer seat in the saddle since leather clings to leather and afforded a stronger grip with the knees. Shotgun chaps were put on like a pair of pants. They flared a bit at the ankle to allow a cowboy to put them on without having to remove his boots or even spurs. Batwings In the 1880s, due to the popularity of  Wild West Shows and rodeos, a new style of chaps came into fashion. This variety featured wide leather wings that flapped out to the sides. In the beginning, batwing chaps mimicked the step-in style of the shotguns with buckles running the length of the outside seam. However, by the turn of the century, fewer buckles were used and more leather was added. The open leg style took precedence with the chaps only being fastened to the back of the knee. They also became highly decorated with colored leather designs, silver conchos, fancy stitching, and all kinds of custom leather tooling. This is the style you continue to see along the rodeo circuit today. Woolies Around the same time as the introduction of the batwing, another style emerged on the scene. Woolies became exceedingly popular among cowboys who worked northern ranches, like those in Wyoming or Montana. Most were made from Angora goat skin, but they could also be made from bear, buffalo, or even mountain lion. The wool helped to repel water and added a significant layer of warmth. They were fashioned like the shotguns, as a step-in model, and usually were found in solid colors, white and black being the most common. They had a canvas lining which aided putting them on and taking them off, as the rough leather on the opposite side of the fur would not slide easily over a man's trousers. So which style of chaps would you prefer your hero to wear? Have any of you worn them yourself? I'd love to hear about your experiences. I'll be in and out today since I'm at the American Christian Fiction Writers conference, but I'll check in as often as possible. Blessings! (Reference - I See By Your Outfit: Historical Cowboy Gear of the Northern Plains by Tom Lindmier & Steve Mount)]]> http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/09/23/that-really-chaps-my-hide/feed/ 23 Tennis Anyone? http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/09/09/tennis-anyone/ http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/09/09/tennis-anyone/#comments Fri, 09 Sep 2011 06:00:47 +0000 KarenW http://petticoatsandpistols.com/?p=26276 I'm a huge tennis fan, and this weekend the finals of the last Grand Slam tournament of 2011 will be going on in New York at the US Open. I'm always amazed at the athleticism and power of the top contenders, but I wonder how they would fare if someone turned back the clock 120 years and gave them the equipment and clothing of their predecessors. Like most sports, the game of tennis evolved over several centuries, but it wasn't until the 1870s that the first lawn tennis club was established in England. The first tennis championship took place in 1877 at a lovely little place called Wimbledon. Just a few years later in 1881,  the United States National Lawn Tennis Association was formed, and the US National Men's Singles Championship (later to become the US Open) was held in Newport, Rhode Island.  The sport became a fashionable rage in the 1880's and 90's, especially among the middle classes, and soon men and women both were taking up racquets and installing private lawn tennis courts at their homes. However, women's clothing of the time made few concessions to the sport. Men were able to play in loose-fitting trousers, shirt sleeves, and a bare head while women were still expected to wear dresses with high-neck bodices, floor-length skirts, layers of petticoats, hats, and yes. . . corsets. The restrictive clothing made it nearly impossible for a woman to bend over and retrieve a ball, so beautifully embroidered tennis aprons with large pockets became the style. In the beginning, tennis was simply a recreational activity, much like croquet. The fun came in the gathering of friends. Players stood close to the net and simply patted the ball to each other. Yet competitive natures prevailed, and it soon became a sport for athletes. During this time of change, women began making strides in adapting their clothing to better accommodate the physical aspects of the game. Maud Watson became the first female champion at Wimbledon in 1884 and she shocked many with her agressive style of play and *gasp* her short skirts. They barely reached her ankles! American MaySutton stunned spectators when she rolled up her sleeves during a match and bared her forearms. However, it was Frenchwoman Suzanne Lenglen in the 1920's who took women's sportwear to a whole new level. Her calf-length cotton dresses were considered indecent since she wore neither corset nor petticoat. And instead of a hat, she wore a silk bandeau around her head to help keep her hair out of her eyes. But it was her grace and skill on the court that made her a sporting heroine and inspired women everywhere to give up the shakles of fashion to embrace functionality when it came to sport apparel. Can you imagine trying to play tennis or any serious sport while trussed up in a corset? I don't know how they did it. But if it weren't for those early competive females like Maude Watson who started taking small revolutionary steps, the women's movement might not have gained the momentum it did at the turn of the century. Are any of you tennis fans? Want to strap on a corset and long skirt and join me for a reenactment match? No? I'm shocked. Truly shocked.]]> http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/09/09/tennis-anyone/feed/ 19 Clothes To Get Hitched In http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/10/28/strap-em-on-cowboy/ http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/10/28/strap-em-on-cowboy/#comments Fri, 28 Oct 2011 06:00:43 +0000 KarenW http://petticoatsandpistols.com/?p=27841 From a distance, you might think one cowboy looks pretty much like another, but on closer inspection, you'll find that though their gear contains the same staples, a cowboy finds a way to make his equipment truly his own. From the type of horse he rides, to the tool work on his saddle, to the way he shapes the brim of his hat--a western man can tell you a lot about himself without ever opening his mouth. One prime example of this is how the man wears his gun. In the 19th century, it was unheard of for a man to ride the range without a weapon within easy reach. Dangers abounded. Wild animals. Snakes.  Not to mention the trouble that originated on two legs from rustlers or Indian raiding parties. Some carried rifles in a scabbard attached to the saddle, but after the advent of the Colt Single Action Army revolver or Peacemaker in 1873, most cowboys carried a sidearm either instead of a rifle or in addition to it. It was always at hand, even if one's horse was not. But how a man chose to wear his Colt, well . . . that was a matter of style and expediency. The leather holster could be plain or decorated, usually natural or brown-colored leather, though sometimes black. Some men stamped their initials or their ranch's brand into the leather. Holsters in the 1870s were open at the top and had a belt loop on the backside which slid over the cartridge belt. By the 1880s,  holsters tended to be made from a single piece of leather with a back that looped over the belt and provided slots to secure the front. The holster at the top of this post shows this later style with a double loop holster. Gun belts usually ranged from 3-4 inches wide, and the number of catridge loops on them depended on the caliber of the revolver as well as the length of the belt. Most carried between 40-50 loops. Since ammunition came in boxes of 50, one box could generally fill the belt and the revolver, leaving one chamber empty for safety purposes. Look at the two men pictured below. Both wear their guns on the right hip. However one man is left-handed. Notice the butt of the pistols. The man in black is wearing his in the usual fashion, with the handle pointing backward. In contrast, note how the man in white shirt sleeves has his handle pointing forward. This is called the "cross draw" position. While most preferred drawing their weapon from the same hip as the dominant hand, some found it easier to reach across their body to draw their weapon, hence the outward facing handle. In fact, if you look carefully at the picture above with the four cowboys together, you'll notice the third man from the left wears his pistol in the cross draw position.                       Despite what we see in the movies, a working cowboy rarely if ever wore more than one gun. If he did wear two, usually the second was simply to have on hand to save the time of reloading as a man would not be nearly as proficient a shooter with his non-dominant hand. And those holsters that tied down to a man's thigh? Well, those were usually reserved for professional gunmen whether on the right or wrong side of the law. The tie served to anchor the holster so that no slip of the leather would impede a fast draw. So do any of you have antique holsters or gun belts in your family treasure chest? The wearing of sidearms waned after the end of the 19th century. As populations grew, towns passed ordinances against carrying weapons. But some die hard cowboys never gave up on packing their Colt when riding the range.]]> http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/10/28/strap-em-on-cowboy/feed/ 20 Petticoats & Pistols » 19th Century Fashion http://petticoatsandpistols.com Romancing The West Thu, 24 May 2012 02:38:45 +0000 en hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.2.1 A Passion for Fashion . . . and Giveaway!!! http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2012/03/23/a-passion-for-fashion-and-giveaway/ http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2012/03/23/a-passion-for-fashion-and-giveaway/#comments Fri, 23 Mar 2012 05:01:51 +0000 KarenW http://petticoatsandpistols.com/?p=30333

Women have always been drawn to fashion, and the Texas frontier was no different than any other setting. From wealthy ranch wives to schoolmarms to women working on the farm, females shared a common thirst for fashion. Practicality won out for slopping the pigs or hanging out the wash, but for church, a picnic, or party, every woman wanted to look her best. And with the advent of fashion magazines becoming readily available through the post, a woman need not live in the fine cities of the east to know what the latest styles dictated. Harper's Bazaar, Peterson's Magazine, The Delineator, and Godey's Lady's Book were some of the favorites during the latter half of the 19thcentury. [caption id="attachment_30339" align="alignright" width="133" caption="1880"][/caption] [caption id="attachment_30335" align="alignleft" width="126" caption="1867"][/caption] [caption id="attachment_30337" align="alignleft" width="121" caption="1877"][/caption]                   My favorite era to write about is the 1880s. Early in the decade, we see lovely slender silhouettes. The bell-shaped skirts of the Civil War era had been left behind and the bustles of the 1870s had not yet made their comeback, so the style of the day exemplified grace and elegance. However, the tight-fitting style wasn't always practical. This sample from Godey's (at left) shows the slender lines, layered flounces on the skirts, and the vibrant colors women of this time period enjoyed. The women on the ends are wearing the snug fitting basque bodices that extend to the edge of the hips while the dresses on the women next to them exemplify the longer polonaise style bodice that becomes more of an overskirt as it drapes past the knees or even the ankles. Below is a fashion plate from the September 1881 issue of Peterson's Magazine. Note the tiny, corseted waists and gathered, draping fabric across the hips and upper leg area of the two models on the right. This horizontal draping was very indicative of the early 1880s. Some of the most popular fabrics included silk (lightweight for eveningwear, faille, lampas, and gros grain varieties for walking dresses), wool (merino, cashmere), satin (often brocaded), and velvet. Of course, women with a more modest budget had to make do with linen, muslin, and calico. Yet in the hands of a capable dressmaker, the results still translated into fashionable ensembles. So what 1881 fashion best describes your personality?
  • The fine merino wool walking dress - You like to wear the latest styles, presenting an elegant, refined, and professional image.
  • The calico work dress – High fashion is just not practical for your everyday life. You've got too much to get done and prefer being comfortable while you're doing it.
  • Britches and cotton – You've got a bit of a rebel streak in you. You'd rather be off with the boys fishing, riding, or doing anything outdoors. Skirts of any kind are just a hassle.
    Leave a comment for a chance to win a copy of my first release, A Tailor-Made Bride. In this story, my heroine, Hannah, is a seamstress who always keeps abreast of the latest trends while finding ways to adapt them to the lifestyle of the women in Coventry, Texas.   A Tailor-Made Bride was a 2011 RITA finalist for Best First Book as well as a finalist for the 2011 National Reader's Choice Award.  ]]> http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2012/03/23/a-passion-for-fashion-and-giveaway/feed/ 56 Strap ‘em on, Cowboy… http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/10/28/strap-em-on-cowboy/ http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/10/28/strap-em-on-cowboy/#comments Fri, 28 Oct 2011 06:00:43 +0000 KarenW http://petticoatsandpistols.com/?p=27841 From a distance, you might think one cowboy looks pretty much like another, but on closer inspection, you'll find that though their gear contains the same staples, a cowboy finds a way to make his equipment truly his own. From the type of horse he rides, to the tool work on his saddle, to the way he shapes the brim of his hat--a western man can tell you a lot about himself without ever opening his mouth. One prime example of this is how the man wears his gun. In the 19th century, it was unheard of for a man to ride the range without a weapon within easy reach. Dangers abounded. Wild animals. Snakes.  Not to mention the trouble that originated on two legs from rustlers or Indian raiding parties. Some carried rifles in a scabbard attached to the saddle, but after the advent of the Colt Single Action Army revolver or Peacemaker in 1873, most cowboys carried a sidearm either instead of a rifle or in addition to it. It was always at hand, even if one's horse was not. But how a man chose to wear his Colt, well . . . that was a matter of style and expediency. The leather holster could be plain or decorated, usually natural or brown-colored leather, though sometimes black. Some men stamped their initials or their ranch's brand into the leather. Holsters in the 1870s were open at the top and had a belt loop on the backside which slid over the cartridge belt. By the 1880s,  holsters tended to be made from a single piece of leather with a back that looped over the belt and provided slots to secure the front. The holster at the top of this post shows this later style with a double loop holster. Gun belts usually ranged from 3-4 inches wide, and the number of catridge loops on them depended on the caliber of the revolver as well as the length of the belt. Most carried between 40-50 loops. Since ammunition came in boxes of 50, one box could generally fill the belt and the revolver, leaving one chamber empty for safety purposes. Look at the two men pictured below. Both wear their guns on the right hip. However one man is left-handed. Notice the butt of the pistols. The man in black is wearing his in the usual fashion, with the handle pointing backward. In contrast, note how the man in white shirt sleeves has his handle pointing forward. This is called the "cross draw" position. While most preferred drawing their weapon from the same hip as the dominant hand, some found it easier to reach across their body to draw their weapon, hence the outward facing handle. In fact, if you look carefully at the picture above with the four cowboys together, you'll notice the third man from the left wears his pistol in the cross draw position.                       Despite what we see in the movies, a working cowboy rarely if ever wore more than one gun. If he did wear two, usually the second was simply to have on hand to save the time of reloading as a man would not be nearly as proficient a shooter with his non-dominant hand. And those holsters that tied down to a man's thigh? Well, those were usually reserved for professional gunmen whether on the right or wrong side of the law. The tie served to anchor the holster so that no slip of the leather would impede a fast draw. So do any of you have antique holsters or gun belts in your family treasure chest? The wearing of sidearms waned after the end of the 19th century. As populations grew, towns passed ordinances against carrying weapons. But some die hard cowboys never gave up on packing their Colt when riding the range.]]> http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/10/28/strap-em-on-cowboy/feed/ 20 That Really Chaps My Hide! http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/09/23/that-really-chaps-my-hide/ http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/09/23/that-really-chaps-my-hide/#comments Fri, 23 Sep 2011 06:00:01 +0000 KarenW http://petticoatsandpistols.com/?p=26682 Besides the trademark hat and boots, the item of clothing that says Cowboy more than any other has to be his chaps. Evolved from the chaparejos of the Mexican vaqueros, chaps were originally designed as part of the saddle. Made of animal hides, these armas, or shields,  attached to the horn of the saddle and wrapped around the rider's legs as well as the horse's chest. Now, if you're like me and didn't grow up around authentic cowboy culture, you probably pronounce chaps like I do with a ch sound like in the word cheek. However, it truth, it is pronounced with an sh sound like in the Spanish word chaparral, which interestingly enough is the scrubby vegetation that motivated the vaqueros to create chaps in the first place. Shotguns In the 1830s and 40s, the first full-length leather britches were created that completely encircled the legs (although the seat remained uncovered). By the 1870s, these garments came to be known as "shotguns" because they were basically two leather cylinders belted together resembling the double barrels of a shotgun. The waist belt was square cut and buckled at the back. Many came with pockets that closed with a flap and a cowboy could personalize his set by the way he dressed up the outer seams. Many had fringe or conchas. Although, most working cowhands weren't too concerned with appearance. All they cared about was the protection the leggings provided against not only vegetation, but weather as well. They kept a man's trousers dry in rain and afforded an extra layer of warmth in wintry conditions. In hot months, though, a man often removed them and worked without. Some men claimed they gave a firmer seat in the saddle since leather clings to leather and afforded a stronger grip with the knees. Shotgun chaps were put on like a pair of pants. They flared a bit at the ankle to allow a cowboy to put them on without having to remove his boots or even spurs. Batwings In the 1880s, due to the popularity of  Wild West Shows and rodeos, a new style of chaps came into fashion. This variety featured wide leather wings that flapped out to the sides. In the beginning, batwing chaps mimicked the step-in style of the shotguns with buckles running the length of the outside seam. However, by the turn of the century, fewer buckles were used and more leather was added. The open leg style took precedence with the chaps only being fastened to the back of the knee. They also became highly decorated with colored leather designs, silver conchos, fancy stitching, and all kinds of custom leather tooling. This is the style you continue to see along the rodeo circuit today. Woolies Around the same time as the introduction of the batwing, another style emerged on the scene. Woolies became exceedingly popular among cowboys who worked northern ranches, like those in Wyoming or Montana. Most were made from Angora goat skin, but they could also be made from bear, buffalo, or even mountain lion. The wool helped to repel water and added a significant layer of warmth. They were fashioned like the shotguns, as a step-in model, and usually were found in solid colors, white and black being the most common. They had a canvas lining which aided putting them on and taking them off, as the rough leather on the opposite side of the fur would not slide easily over a man's trousers. So which style of chaps would you prefer your hero to wear? Have any of you worn them yourself? I'd love to hear about your experiences. I'll be in and out today since I'm at the American Christian Fiction Writers conference, but I'll check in as often as possible. Blessings! (Reference - I See By Your Outfit: Historical Cowboy Gear of the Northern Plains by Tom Lindmier & Steve Mount)]]> http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/09/23/that-really-chaps-my-hide/feed/ 23 Tennis Anyone? http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/09/09/tennis-anyone/ http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/09/09/tennis-anyone/#comments Fri, 09 Sep 2011 06:00:47 +0000 KarenW http://petticoatsandpistols.com/?p=26276 I'm a huge tennis fan, and this weekend the finals of the last Grand Slam tournament of 2011 will be going on in New York at the US Open. I'm always amazed at the athleticism and power of the top contenders, but I wonder how they would fare if someone turned back the clock 120 years and gave them the equipment and clothing of their predecessors. Like most sports, the game of tennis evolved over several centuries, but it wasn't until the 1870s that the first lawn tennis club was established in England. The first tennis championship took place in 1877 at a lovely little place called Wimbledon. Just a few years later in 1881,  the United States National Lawn Tennis Association was formed, and the US National Men's Singles Championship (later to become the US Open) was held in Newport, Rhode Island.  The sport became a fashionable rage in the 1880's and 90's, especially among the middle classes, and soon men and women both were taking up racquets and installing private lawn tennis courts at their homes. However, women's clothing of the time made few concessions to the sport. Men were able to play in loose-fitting trousers, shirt sleeves, and a bare head while women were still expected to wear dresses with high-neck bodices, floor-length skirts, layers of petticoats, hats, and yes. . . corsets. The restrictive clothing made it nearly impossible for a woman to bend over and retrieve a ball, so beautifully embroidered tennis aprons with large pockets became the style. In the beginning, tennis was simply a recreational activity, much like croquet. The fun came in the gathering of friends. Players stood close to the net and simply patted the ball to each other. Yet competitive natures prevailed, and it soon became a sport for athletes. During this time of change, women began making strides in adapting their clothing to better accommodate the physical aspects of the game. Maud Watson became the first female champion at Wimbledon in 1884 and she shocked many with her agressive style of play and *gasp* her short skirts. They barely reached her ankles! American MaySutton stunned spectators when she rolled up her sleeves during a match and bared her forearms. However, it was Frenchwoman Suzanne Lenglen in the 1920's who took women's sportwear to a whole new level. Her calf-length cotton dresses were considered indecent since she wore neither corset nor petticoat. And instead of a hat, she wore a silk bandeau around her head to help keep her hair out of her eyes. But it was her grace and skill on the court that made her a sporting heroine and inspired women everywhere to give up the shakles of fashion to embrace functionality when it came to sport apparel. Can you imagine trying to play tennis or any serious sport while trussed up in a corset? I don't know how they did it. But if it weren't for those early competive females like Maude Watson who started taking small revolutionary steps, the women's movement might not have gained the momentum it did at the turn of the century. Are any of you tennis fans? Want to strap on a corset and long skirt and join me for a reenactment match? No? I'm shocked. Truly shocked.]]> http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/09/09/tennis-anyone/feed/ 19 Clothes To Get Hitched In http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/09/23/that-really-chaps-my-hide/ http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/09/23/that-really-chaps-my-hide/#comments Fri, 23 Sep 2011 06:00:01 +0000 KarenW http://petticoatsandpistols.com/?p=26682 Besides the trademark hat and boots, the item of clothing that says Cowboy more than any other has to be his chaps. Evolved from the chaparejos of the Mexican vaqueros, chaps were originally designed as part of the saddle. Made of animal hides, these armas, or shields,  attached to the horn of the saddle and wrapped around the rider's legs as well as the horse's chest. Now, if you're like me and didn't grow up around authentic cowboy culture, you probably pronounce chaps like I do with a ch sound like in the word cheek. However, it truth, it is pronounced with an sh sound like in the Spanish word chaparral, which interestingly enough is the scrubby vegetation that motivated the vaqueros to create chaps in the first place. Shotguns In the 1830s and 40s, the first full-length leather britches were created that completely encircled the legs (although the seat remained uncovered). By the 1870s, these garments came to be known as "shotguns" because they were basically two leather cylinders belted together resembling the double barrels of a shotgun. The waist belt was square cut and buckled at the back. Many came with pockets that closed with a flap and a cowboy could personalize his set by the way he dressed up the outer seams. Many had fringe or conchas. Although, most working cowhands weren't too concerned with appearance. All they cared about was the protection the leggings provided against not only vegetation, but weather as well. They kept a man's trousers dry in rain and afforded an extra layer of warmth in wintry conditions. In hot months, though, a man often removed them and worked without. Some men claimed they gave a firmer seat in the saddle since leather clings to leather and afforded a stronger grip with the knees. Shotgun chaps were put on like a pair of pants. They flared a bit at the ankle to allow a cowboy to put them on without having to remove his boots or even spurs. Batwings In the 1880s, due to the popularity of  Wild West Shows and rodeos, a new style of chaps came into fashion. This variety featured wide leather wings that flapped out to the sides. In the beginning, batwing chaps mimicked the step-in style of the shotguns with buckles running the length of the outside seam. However, by the turn of the century, fewer buckles were used and more leather was added. The open leg style took precedence with the chaps only being fastened to the back of the knee. They also became highly decorated with colored leather designs, silver conchos, fancy stitching, and all kinds of custom leather tooling. This is the style you continue to see along the rodeo circuit today. Woolies Around the same time as the introduction of the batwing, another style emerged on the scene. Woolies became exceedingly popular among cowboys who worked northern ranches, like those in Wyoming or Montana. Most were made from Angora goat skin, but they could also be made from bear, buffalo, or even mountain lion. The wool helped to repel water and added a significant layer of warmth. They were fashioned like the shotguns, as a step-in model, and usually were found in solid colors, white and black being the most common. They had a canvas lining which aided putting them on and taking them off, as the rough leather on the opposite side of the fur would not slide easily over a man's trousers. So which style of chaps would you prefer your hero to wear? Have any of you worn them yourself? I'd love to hear about your experiences. I'll be in and out today since I'm at the American Christian Fiction Writers conference, but I'll check in as often as possible. Blessings! (Reference - I See By Your Outfit: Historical Cowboy Gear of the Northern Plains by Tom Lindmier & Steve Mount)]]> http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/09/23/that-really-chaps-my-hide/feed/ 23 Petticoats & Pistols » 19th Century Fashion http://petticoatsandpistols.com Romancing The West Thu, 24 May 2012 02:38:45 +0000 en hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.2.1 A Passion for Fashion . . . and Giveaway!!! http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2012/03/23/a-passion-for-fashion-and-giveaway/ http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2012/03/23/a-passion-for-fashion-and-giveaway/#comments Fri, 23 Mar 2012 05:01:51 +0000 KarenW http://petticoatsandpistols.com/?p=30333

Women have always been drawn to fashion, and the Texas frontier was no different than any other setting. From wealthy ranch wives to schoolmarms to women working on the farm, females shared a common thirst for fashion. Practicality won out for slopping the pigs or hanging out the wash, but for church, a picnic, or party, every woman wanted to look her best. And with the advent of fashion magazines becoming readily available through the post, a woman need not live in the fine cities of the east to know what the latest styles dictated. Harper's Bazaar, Peterson's Magazine, The Delineator, and Godey's Lady's Book were some of the favorites during the latter half of the 19thcentury. [caption id="attachment_30339" align="alignright" width="133" caption="1880"][/caption] [caption id="attachment_30335" align="alignleft" width="126" caption="1867"][/caption] [caption id="attachment_30337" align="alignleft" width="121" caption="1877"][/caption]                   My favorite era to write about is the 1880s. Early in the decade, we see lovely slender silhouettes. The bell-shaped skirts of the Civil War era had been left behind and the bustles of the 1870s had not yet made their comeback, so the style of the day exemplified grace and elegance. However, the tight-fitting style wasn't always practical. This sample from Godey's (at left) shows the slender lines, layered flounces on the skirts, and the vibrant colors women of this time period enjoyed. The women on the ends are wearing the snug fitting basque bodices that extend to the edge of the hips while the dresses on the women next to them exemplify the longer polonaise style bodice that becomes more of an overskirt as it drapes past the knees or even the ankles. Below is a fashion plate from the September 1881 issue of Peterson's Magazine. Note the tiny, corseted waists and gathered, draping fabric across the hips and upper leg area of the two models on the right. This horizontal draping was very indicative of the early 1880s. Some of the most popular fabrics included silk (lightweight for eveningwear, faille, lampas, and gros grain varieties for walking dresses), wool (merino, cashmere), satin (often brocaded), and velvet. Of course, women with a more modest budget had to make do with linen, muslin, and calico. Yet in the hands of a capable dressmaker, the results still translated into fashionable ensembles. So what 1881 fashion best describes your personality?
  • The fine merino wool walking dress - You like to wear the latest styles, presenting an elegant, refined, and professional image.
  • The calico work dress – High fashion is just not practical for your everyday life. You've got too much to get done and prefer being comfortable while you're doing it.
  • Britches and cotton – You've got a bit of a rebel streak in you. You'd rather be off with the boys fishing, riding, or doing anything outdoors. Skirts of any kind are just a hassle.
    Leave a comment for a chance to win a copy of my first release, A Tailor-Made Bride. In this story, my heroine, Hannah, is a seamstress who always keeps abreast of the latest trends while finding ways to adapt them to the lifestyle of the women in Coventry, Texas.   A Tailor-Made Bride was a 2011 RITA finalist for Best First Book as well as a finalist for the 2011 National Reader's Choice Award.  ]]> http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2012/03/23/a-passion-for-fashion-and-giveaway/feed/ 56 Strap ‘em on, Cowboy… http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/10/28/strap-em-on-cowboy/ http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/10/28/strap-em-on-cowboy/#comments Fri, 28 Oct 2011 06:00:43 +0000 KarenW http://petticoatsandpistols.com/?p=27841 From a distance, you might think one cowboy looks pretty much like another, but on closer inspection, you'll find that though their gear contains the same staples, a cowboy finds a way to make his equipment truly his own. From the type of horse he rides, to the tool work on his saddle, to the way he shapes the brim of his hat--a western man can tell you a lot about himself without ever opening his mouth. One prime example of this is how the man wears his gun. In the 19th century, it was unheard of for a man to ride the range without a weapon within easy reach. Dangers abounded. Wild animals. Snakes.  Not to mention the trouble that originated on two legs from rustlers or Indian raiding parties. Some carried rifles in a scabbard attached to the saddle, but after the advent of the Colt Single Action Army revolver or Peacemaker in 1873, most cowboys carried a sidearm either instead of a rifle or in addition to it. It was always at hand, even if one's horse was not. But how a man chose to wear his Colt, well . . . that was a matter of style and expediency. The leather holster could be plain or decorated, usually natural or brown-colored leather, though sometimes black. Some men stamped their initials or their ranch's brand into the leather. Holsters in the 1870s were open at the top and had a belt loop on the backside which slid over the cartridge belt. By the 1880s,  holsters tended to be made from a single piece of leather with a back that looped over the belt and provided slots to secure the front. The holster at the top of this post shows this later style with a double loop holster. Gun belts usually ranged from 3-4 inches wide, and the number of catridge loops on them depended on the caliber of the revolver as well as the length of the belt. Most carried between 40-50 loops. Since ammunition came in boxes of 50, one box could generally fill the belt and the revolver, leaving one chamber empty for safety purposes. Look at the two men pictured below. Both wear their guns on the right hip. However one man is left-handed. Notice the butt of the pistols. The man in black is wearing his in the usual fashion, with the handle pointing backward. In contrast, note how the man in white shirt sleeves has his handle pointing forward. This is called the "cross draw" position. While most preferred drawing their weapon from the same hip as the dominant hand, some found it easier to reach across their body to draw their weapon, hence the outward facing handle. In fact, if you look carefully at the picture above with the four cowboys together, you'll notice the third man from the left wears his pistol in the cross draw position.                       Despite what we see in the movies, a working cowboy rarely if ever wore more than one gun. If he did wear two, usually the second was simply to have on hand to save the time of reloading as a man would not be nearly as proficient a shooter with his non-dominant hand. And those holsters that tied down to a man's thigh? Well, those were usually reserved for professional gunmen whether on the right or wrong side of the law. The tie served to anchor the holster so that no slip of the leather would impede a fast draw. So do any of you have antique holsters or gun belts in your family treasure chest? The wearing of sidearms waned after the end of the 19th century. As populations grew, towns passed ordinances against carrying weapons. But some die hard cowboys never gave up on packing their Colt when riding the range.]]> http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/10/28/strap-em-on-cowboy/feed/ 20 That Really Chaps My Hide! http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/09/23/that-really-chaps-my-hide/ http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/09/23/that-really-chaps-my-hide/#comments Fri, 23 Sep 2011 06:00:01 +0000 KarenW http://petticoatsandpistols.com/?p=26682 Besides the trademark hat and boots, the item of clothing that says Cowboy more than any other has to be his chaps. Evolved from the chaparejos of the Mexican vaqueros, chaps were originally designed as part of the saddle. Made of animal hides, these armas, or shields,  attached to the horn of the saddle and wrapped around the rider's legs as well as the horse's chest. Now, if you're like me and didn't grow up around authentic cowboy culture, you probably pronounce chaps like I do with a ch sound like in the word cheek. However, it truth, it is pronounced with an sh sound like in the Spanish word chaparral, which interestingly enough is the scrubby vegetation that motivated the vaqueros to create chaps in the first place. Shotguns In the 1830s and 40s, the first full-length leather britches were created that completely encircled the legs (although the seat remained uncovered). By the 1870s, these garments came to be known as "shotguns" because they were basically two leather cylinders belted together resembling the double barrels of a shotgun. The waist belt was square cut and buckled at the back. Many came with pockets that closed with a flap and a cowboy could personalize his set by the way he dressed up the outer seams. Many had fringe or conchas. Although, most working cowhands weren't too concerned with appearance. All they cared about was the protection the leggings provided against not only vegetation, but weather as well. They kept a man's trousers dry in rain and afforded an extra layer of warmth in wintry conditions. In hot months, though, a man often removed them and worked without. Some men claimed they gave a firmer seat in the saddle since leather clings to leather and afforded a stronger grip with the knees. Shotgun chaps were put on like a pair of pants. They flared a bit at the ankle to allow a cowboy to put them on without having to remove his boots or even spurs. Batwings In the 1880s, due to the popularity of  Wild West Shows and rodeos, a new style of chaps came into fashion. This variety featured wide leather wings that flapped out to the sides. In the beginning, batwing chaps mimicked the step-in style of the shotguns with buckles running the length of the outside seam. However, by the turn of the century, fewer buckles were used and more leather was added. The open leg style took precedence with the chaps only being fastened to the back of the knee. They also became highly decorated with colored leather designs, silver conchos, fancy stitching, and all kinds of custom leather tooling. This is the style you continue to see along the rodeo circuit today. Woolies Around the same time as the introduction of the batwing, another style emerged on the scene. Woolies became exceedingly popular among cowboys who worked northern ranches, like those in Wyoming or Montana. Most were made from Angora goat skin, but they could also be made from bear, buffalo, or even mountain lion. The wool helped to repel water and added a significant layer of warmth. They were fashioned like the shotguns, as a step-in model, and usually were found in solid colors, white and black being the most common. They had a canvas lining which aided putting them on and taking them off, as the rough leather on the opposite side of the fur would not slide easily over a man's trousers. So which style of chaps would you prefer your hero to wear? Have any of you worn them yourself? I'd love to hear about your experiences. I'll be in and out today since I'm at the American Christian Fiction Writers conference, but I'll check in as often as possible. Blessings! (Reference - I See By Your Outfit: Historical Cowboy Gear of the Northern Plains by Tom Lindmier & Steve Mount)]]> http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/09/23/that-really-chaps-my-hide/feed/ 23 Tennis Anyone? http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/09/09/tennis-anyone/ http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/09/09/tennis-anyone/#comments Fri, 09 Sep 2011 06:00:47 +0000 KarenW http://petticoatsandpistols.com/?p=26276 I'm a huge tennis fan, and this weekend the finals of the last Grand Slam tournament of 2011 will be going on in New York at the US Open. I'm always amazed at the athleticism and power of the top contenders, but I wonder how they would fare if someone turned back the clock 120 years and gave them the equipment and clothing of their predecessors. Like most sports, the game of tennis evolved over several centuries, but it wasn't until the 1870s that the first lawn tennis club was established in England. The first tennis championship took place in 1877 at a lovely little place called Wimbledon. Just a few years later in 1881,  the United States National Lawn Tennis Association was formed, and the US National Men's Singles Championship (later to become the US Open) was held in Newport, Rhode Island.  The sport became a fashionable rage in the 1880's and 90's, especially among the middle classes, and soon men and women both were taking up racquets and installing private lawn tennis courts at their homes. However, women's clothing of the time made few concessions to the sport. Men were able to play in loose-fitting trousers, shirt sleeves, and a bare head while women were still expected to wear dresses with high-neck bodices, floor-length skirts, layers of petticoats, hats, and yes. . . corsets. The restrictive clothing made it nearly impossible for a woman to bend over and retrieve a ball, so beautifully embroidered tennis aprons with large pockets became the style. In the beginning, tennis was simply a recreational activity, much like croquet. The fun came in the gathering of friends. Players stood close to the net and simply patted the ball to each other. Yet competitive natures prevailed, and it soon became a sport for athletes. During this time of change, women began making strides in adapting their clothing to better accommodate the physical aspects of the game. Maud Watson became the first female champion at Wimbledon in 1884 and she shocked many with her agressive style of play and *gasp* her short skirts. They barely reached her ankles! American MaySutton stunned spectators when she rolled up her sleeves during a match and bared her forearms. However, it was Frenchwoman Suzanne Lenglen in the 1920's who took women's sportwear to a whole new level. Her calf-length cotton dresses were considered indecent since she wore neither corset nor petticoat. And instead of a hat, she wore a silk bandeau around her head to help keep her hair out of her eyes. But it was her grace and skill on the court that made her a sporting heroine and inspired women everywhere to give up the shakles of fashion to embrace functionality when it came to sport apparel. Can you imagine trying to play tennis or any serious sport while trussed up in a corset? I don't know how they did it. But if it weren't for those early competive females like Maude Watson who started taking small revolutionary steps, the women's movement might not have gained the momentum it did at the turn of the century. Are any of you tennis fans? Want to strap on a corset and long skirt and join me for a reenactment match? No? I'm shocked. Truly shocked.]]> http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/09/09/tennis-anyone/feed/ 19 Clothes To Get Hitched In http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/09/09/tennis-anyone/ http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/09/09/tennis-anyone/#comments Fri, 09 Sep 2011 06:00:47 +0000 KarenW http://petticoatsandpistols.com/?p=26276 I'm a huge tennis fan, and this weekend the finals of the last Grand Slam tournament of 2011 will be going on in New York at the US Open. I'm always amazed at the athleticism and power of the top contenders, but I wonder how they would fare if someone turned back the clock 120 years and gave them the equipment and clothing of their predecessors. Like most sports, the game of tennis evolved over several centuries, but it wasn't until the 1870s that the first lawn tennis club was established in England. The first tennis championship took place in 1877 at a lovely little place called Wimbledon. Just a few years later in 1881,  the United States National Lawn Tennis Association was formed, and the US National Men's Singles Championship (later to become the US Open) was held in Newport, Rhode Island.  The sport became a fashionable rage in the 1880's and 90's, especially among the middle classes, and soon men and women both were taking up racquets and installing private lawn tennis courts at their homes. However, women's clothing of the time made few concessions to the sport. Men were able to play in loose-fitting trousers, shirt sleeves, and a bare head while women were still expected to wear dresses with high-neck bodices, floor-length skirts, layers of petticoats, hats, and yes. . . corsets. The restrictive clothing made it nearly impossible for a woman to bend over and retrieve a ball, so beautifully embroidered tennis aprons with large pockets became the style. In the beginning, tennis was simply a recreational activity, much like croquet. The fun came in the gathering of friends. Players stood close to the net and simply patted the ball to each other. Yet competitive natures prevailed, and it soon became a sport for athletes. During this time of change, women began making strides in adapting their clothing to better accommodate the physical aspects of the game. Maud Watson became the first female champion at Wimbledon in 1884 and she shocked many with her agressive style of play and *gasp* her short skirts. They barely reached her ankles! American MaySutton stunned spectators when she rolled up her sleeves during a match and bared her forearms. However, it was Frenchwoman Suzanne Lenglen in the 1920's who took women's sportwear to a whole new level. Her calf-length cotton dresses were considered indecent since she wore neither corset nor petticoat. And instead of a hat, she wore a silk bandeau around her head to help keep her hair out of her eyes. But it was her grace and skill on the court that made her a sporting heroine and inspired women everywhere to give up the shakles of fashion to embrace functionality when it came to sport apparel. Can you imagine trying to play tennis or any serious sport while trussed up in a corset? I don't know how they did it. But if it weren't for those early competive females like Maude Watson who started taking small revolutionary steps, the women's movement might not have gained the momentum it did at the turn of the century. Are any of you tennis fans? Want to strap on a corset and long skirt and join me for a reenactment match? No? I'm shocked. Truly shocked.]]> http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/09/09/tennis-anyone/feed/ 19 Petticoats & Pistols » 19th Century Fashion http://petticoatsandpistols.com Romancing The West Thu, 24 May 2012 02:38:45 +0000 en hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.2.1 A Passion for Fashion . . . and Giveaway!!! http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2012/03/23/a-passion-for-fashion-and-giveaway/ http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2012/03/23/a-passion-for-fashion-and-giveaway/#comments Fri, 23 Mar 2012 05:01:51 +0000 KarenW http://petticoatsandpistols.com/?p=30333

Women have always been drawn to fashion, and the Texas frontier was no different than any other setting. From wealthy ranch wives to schoolmarms to women working on the farm, females shared a common thirst for fashion. Practicality won out for slopping the pigs or hanging out the wash, but for church, a picnic, or party, every woman wanted to look her best. And with the advent of fashion magazines becoming readily available through the post, a woman need not live in the fine cities of the east to know what the latest styles dictated. Harper's Bazaar, Peterson's Magazine, The Delineator, and Godey's Lady's Book were some of the favorites during the latter half of the 19thcentury. [caption id="attachment_30339" align="alignright" width="133" caption="1880"][/caption] [caption id="attachment_30335" align="alignleft" width="126" caption="1867"][/caption] [caption id="attachment_30337" align="alignleft" width="121" caption="1877"][/caption]                   My favorite era to write about is the 1880s. Early in the decade, we see lovely slender silhouettes. The bell-shaped skirts of the Civil War era had been left behind and the bustles of the 1870s had not yet made their comeback, so the style of the day exemplified grace and elegance. However, the tight-fitting style wasn't always practical. This sample from Godey's (at left) shows the slender lines, layered flounces on the skirts, and the vibrant colors women of this time period enjoyed. The women on the ends are wearing the snug fitting basque bodices that extend to the edge of the hips while the dresses on the women next to them exemplify the longer polonaise style bodice that becomes more of an overskirt as it drapes past the knees or even the ankles. Below is a fashion plate from the September 1881 issue of Peterson's Magazine. Note the tiny, corseted waists and gathered, draping fabric across the hips and upper leg area of the two models on the right. This horizontal draping was very indicative of the early 1880s. Some of the most popular fabrics included silk (lightweight for eveningwear, faille, lampas, and gros grain varieties for walking dresses), wool (merino, cashmere), satin (often brocaded), and velvet. Of course, women with a more modest budget had to make do with linen, muslin, and calico. Yet in the hands of a capable dressmaker, the results still translated into fashionable ensembles. So what 1881 fashion best describes your personality?
  • The fine merino wool walking dress - You like to wear the latest styles, presenting an elegant, refined, and professional image.
  • The calico work dress – High fashion is just not practical for your everyday life. You've got too much to get done and prefer being comfortable while you're doing it.
  • Britches and cotton – You've got a bit of a rebel streak in you. You'd rather be off with the boys fishing, riding, or doing anything outdoors. Skirts of any kind are just a hassle.
    Leave a comment for a chance to win a copy of my first release, A Tailor-Made Bride. In this story, my heroine, Hannah, is a seamstress who always keeps abreast of the latest trends while finding ways to adapt them to the lifestyle of the women in Coventry, Texas.   A Tailor-Made Bride was a 2011 RITA finalist for Best First Book as well as a finalist for the 2011 National Reader's Choice Award.  ]]> http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2012/03/23/a-passion-for-fashion-and-giveaway/feed/ 56 Strap ‘em on, Cowboy… http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/10/28/strap-em-on-cowboy/ http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/10/28/strap-em-on-cowboy/#comments Fri, 28 Oct 2011 06:00:43 +0000 KarenW http://petticoatsandpistols.com/?p=27841 From a distance, you might think one cowboy looks pretty much like another, but on closer inspection, you'll find that though their gear contains the same staples, a cowboy finds a way to make his equipment truly his own. From the type of horse he rides, to the tool work on his saddle, to the way he shapes the brim of his hat--a western man can tell you a lot about himself without ever opening his mouth. One prime example of this is how the man wears his gun. In the 19th century, it was unheard of for a man to ride the range without a weapon within easy reach. Dangers abounded. Wild animals. Snakes.  Not to mention the trouble that originated on two legs from rustlers or Indian raiding parties. Some carried rifles in a scabbard attached to the saddle, but after the advent of the Colt Single Action Army revolver or Peacemaker in 1873, most cowboys carried a sidearm either instead of a rifle or in addition to it. It was always at hand, even if one's horse was not. But how a man chose to wear his Colt, well . . . that was a matter of style and expediency. The leather holster could be plain or decorated, usually natural or brown-colored leather, though sometimes black. Some men stamped their initials or their ranch's brand into the leather. Holsters in the 1870s were open at the top and had a belt loop on the backside which slid over the cartridge belt. By the 1880s,  holsters tended to be made from a single piece of leather with a back that looped over the belt and provided slots to secure the front. The holster at the top of this post shows this later style with a double loop holster. Gun belts usually ranged from 3-4 inches wide, and the number of catridge loops on them depended on the caliber of the revolver as well as the length of the belt. Most carried between 40-50 loops. Since ammunition came in boxes of 50, one box could generally fill the belt and the revolver, leaving one chamber empty for safety purposes. Look at the two men pictured below. Both wear their guns on the right hip. However one man is left-handed. Notice the butt of the pistols. The man in black is wearing his in the usual fashion, with the handle pointing backward. In contrast, note how the man in white shirt sleeves has his handle pointing forward. This is called the "cross draw" position. While most preferred drawing their weapon from the same hip as the dominant hand, some found it easier to reach across their body to draw their weapon, hence the outward facing handle. In fact, if you look carefully at the picture above with the four cowboys together, you'll notice the third man from the left wears his pistol in the cross draw position.                       Despite what we see in the movies, a working cowboy rarely if ever wore more than one gun. If he did wear two, usually the second was simply to have on hand to save the time of reloading as a man would not be nearly as proficient a shooter with his non-dominant hand. And those holsters that tied down to a man's thigh? Well, those were usually reserved for professional gunmen whether on the right or wrong side of the law. The tie served to anchor the holster so that no slip of the leather would impede a fast draw. So do any of you have antique holsters or gun belts in your family treasure chest? The wearing of sidearms waned after the end of the 19th century. As populations grew, towns passed ordinances against carrying weapons. But some die hard cowboys never gave up on packing their Colt when riding the range.]]> http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/10/28/strap-em-on-cowboy/feed/ 20 That Really Chaps My Hide! http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/09/23/that-really-chaps-my-hide/ http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/09/23/that-really-chaps-my-hide/#comments Fri, 23 Sep 2011 06:00:01 +0000 KarenW http://petticoatsandpistols.com/?p=26682 Besides the trademark hat and boots, the item of clothing that says Cowboy more than any other has to be his chaps. Evolved from the chaparejos of the Mexican vaqueros, chaps were originally designed as part of the saddle. Made of animal hides, these armas, or shields,  attached to the horn of the saddle and wrapped around the rider's legs as well as the horse's chest. Now, if you're like me and didn't grow up around authentic cowboy culture, you probably pronounce chaps like I do with a ch sound like in the word cheek. However, it truth, it is pronounced with an sh sound like in the Spanish word chaparral, which interestingly enough is the scrubby vegetation that motivated the vaqueros to create chaps in the first place. Shotguns In the 1830s and 40s, the first full-length leather britches were created that completely encircled the legs (although the seat remained uncovered). By the 1870s, these garments came to be known as "shotguns" because they were basically two leather cylinders belted together resembling the double barrels of a shotgun. The waist belt was square cut and buckled at the back. Many came with pockets that closed with a flap and a cowboy could personalize his set by the way he dressed up the outer seams. Many had fringe or conchas. Although, most working cowhands weren't too concerned with appearance. All they cared about was the protection the leggings provided against not only vegetation, but weather as well. They kept a man's trousers dry in rain and afforded an extra layer of warmth in wintry conditions. In hot months, though, a man often removed them and worked without. Some men claimed they gave a firmer seat in the saddle since leather clings to leather and afforded a stronger grip with the knees. Shotgun chaps were put on like a pair of pants. They flared a bit at the ankle to allow a cowboy to put them on without having to remove his boots or even spurs. Batwings In the 1880s, due to the popularity of  Wild West Shows and rodeos, a new style of chaps came into fashion. This variety featured wide leather wings that flapped out to the sides. In the beginning, batwing chaps mimicked the step-in style of the shotguns with buckles running the length of the outside seam. However, by the turn of the century, fewer buckles were used and more leather was added. The open leg style took precedence with the chaps only being fastened to the back of the knee. They also became highly decorated with colored leather designs, silver conchos, fancy stitching, and all kinds of custom leather tooling. This is the style you continue to see along the rodeo circuit today. Woolies Around the same time as the introduction of the batwing, another style emerged on the scene. Woolies became exceedingly popular among cowboys who worked northern ranches, like those in Wyoming or Montana. Most were made from Angora goat skin, but they could also be made from bear, buffalo, or even mountain lion. The wool helped to repel water and added a significant layer of warmth. They were fashioned like the shotguns, as a step-in model, and usually were found in solid colors, white and black being the most common. They had a canvas lining which aided putting them on and taking them off, as the rough leather on the opposite side of the fur would not slide easily over a man's trousers. So which style of chaps would you prefer your hero to wear? Have any of you worn them yourself? I'd love to hear about your experiences. I'll be in and out today since I'm at the American Christian Fiction Writers conference, but I'll check in as often as possible. Blessings! (Reference - I See By Your Outfit: Historical Cowboy Gear of the Northern Plains by Tom Lindmier & Steve Mount)]]> http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/09/23/that-really-chaps-my-hide/feed/ 23 Tennis Anyone? http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/09/09/tennis-anyone/ http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/09/09/tennis-anyone/#comments Fri, 09 Sep 2011 06:00:47 +0000 KarenW http://petticoatsandpistols.com/?p=26276 I'm a huge tennis fan, and this weekend the finals of the last Grand Slam tournament of 2011 will be going on in New York at the US Open. I'm always amazed at the athleticism and power of the top contenders, but I wonder how they would fare if someone turned back the clock 120 years and gave them the equipment and clothing of their predecessors. Like most sports, the game of tennis evolved over several centuries, but it wasn't until the 1870s that the first lawn tennis club was established in England. The first tennis championship took place in 1877 at a lovely little place called Wimbledon. Just a few years later in 1881,  the United States National Lawn Tennis Association was formed, and the US National Men's Singles Championship (later to become the US Open) was held in Newport, Rhode Island.  The sport became a fashionable rage in the 1880's and 90's, especially among the middle classes, and soon men and women both were taking up racquets and installing private lawn tennis courts at their homes. However, women's clothing of the time made few concessions to the sport. Men were able to play in loose-fitting trousers, shirt sleeves, and a bare head while women were still expected to wear dresses with high-neck bodices, floor-length skirts, layers of petticoats, hats, and yes. . . corsets. The restrictive clothing made it nearly impossible for a woman to bend over and retrieve a ball, so beautifully embroidered tennis aprons with large pockets became the style. In the beginning, tennis was simply a recreational activity, much like croquet. The fun came in the gathering of friends. Players stood close to the net and simply patted the ball to each other. Yet competitive natures prevailed, and it soon became a sport for athletes. During this time of change, women began making strides in adapting their clothing to better accommodate the physical aspects of the game. Maud Watson became the first female champion at Wimbledon in 1884 and she shocked many with her agressive style of play and *gasp* her short skirts. They barely reached her ankles! American MaySutton stunned spectators when she rolled up her sleeves during a match and bared her forearms. However, it was Frenchwoman Suzanne Lenglen in the 1920's who took women's sportwear to a whole new level. Her calf-length cotton dresses were considered indecent since she wore neither corset nor petticoat. And instead of a hat, she wore a silk bandeau around her head to help keep her hair out of her eyes. But it was her grace and skill on the court that made her a sporting heroine and inspired women everywhere to give up the shakles of fashion to embrace functionality when it came to sport apparel. Can you imagine trying to play tennis or any serious sport while trussed up in a corset? I don't know how they did it. But if it weren't for those early competive females like Maude Watson who started taking small revolutionary steps, the women's movement might not have gained the momentum it did at the turn of the century. Are any of you tennis fans? Want to strap on a corset and long skirt and join me for a reenactment match? No? I'm shocked. Truly shocked.]]> http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/09/09/tennis-anyone/feed/ 19 Clothes To Get Hitched In http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/07/19/clothes-to-get-hitched-in/ http://petticoatsandpistols.com/2011/07/19/clothes-to-get-hitched-in/#comments Tue, 19 Jul 2011 07:00:35 +0000 Linda Broday http://petticoatsandpistols.com/?p=25174 Last month I went with a friend to the Texas Tech Museum in Lubbock. The newspaper had advertised that they were displaying their extensive collection of old wedding dresses and I couldn't wait to see them. They certainly didn't disappoint. I learned that the museum keeps a ton of things in their basement and take pride in bringing them up to display for the public periodically. Since they have so many wedding dresses, they only bring up a certain amount at a time.  Starting in August these on display now will go back to the basement and a whole new group will come up.  I think they said they have enough to last until June of 2012. Just think how many dresses comprise their collection. The ones I'm showing today were just a few of what my friend and I saw. The first two were surprisingly made of plaid material. I'd never heard of plaid being used for wedding dresses so I was amazed. For those who don't know......white wasn't worn until Queen Victoria married Prince Albert. Prior to that, the dresses had to be functional since they were worn many many times after the wedding.

This one looks like it could've been worn by a prairie lady.

The dresses were in all colors. Here's a bright red one that might've been worn in a winter wedding.

This one was Civil War era. Just imagine having to sew all these buttons on!

These last two that I'll show you today came later toward the end of the 19th century or beginning of the 20th century. Notice that the last one is looking more like the wedding dress we know today.

Over time, some of these dresses became quite worn so the museum experts had to do some extensive renovation. They had a video showing the process of placing another piece of fabric underneath the worn place and carefully stitching it to the dress. I really enjoyed seeing what all goes on behind the scenes.

Dresses in this display were fashioned from fabrics of brocade, velvet, cotton, satin, and silk. The brocade ones looked very heavy and reminded us of the dress Scarlet O'Hara made from her deep emerald drapes.

Can you imagine getting married in dresses like these?

 

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